SymProjects Forum
General Category => General Discussions => Topic started by: twoacejr on May 25, 2013, 07:44:55 pm
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Cristiano, or anyone
I just received my Pro Gauge, is there any documentation for this? I have 5 ProSpec gauges and am not sure how to wire them up. I currently have a Rev Burner running my Tach and all other gauges are just powered up. I am ready to switch all to the new Pro Gauge.
Please help.
Thanks
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the signal wire from the rev counter must be connected to the RPM terminal on the Pro-Gauge. the power and ground wires connect to the 12V and GND terminals respectively,
The signal wire from the speedometer connects to the controller’s terminal marked with SPD. The 12V and ground wires connect to the 12V and GND terminals.
The signal wires from the gauge connect to the S1…S6 terminals of the controller. the 12V and ground wires connect to the 12V and GND terminals.
Your gauges will most likely have a red and a black wire for 12V and ground, respectively. There should be a third wire for the signal, which can vary in colour.
As they're high quality gauges, the wires may be marked for function on the back of the gauge housing.
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If you have the Spek gauges which ones do you have? If they are not can you link me to the manufacturers website. I can help you with the wiring.
If they are the Spek Pro Parts gauges ( http://www.propartsllc.com/ ) the only gauges that work with the Pro Gauge are the Temp gauges, Speed and Tach. PSI gauges are being worked on right now as they have a 3 wire connection and not a two wire like the temp gauges.
As soon as I know what gauges you have I can do a diagram for you to get you up and running.
Mike
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Here is a quick diagram.
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Thanks guys.
Mike,
I have the following gauges:
Spek Pro 5" 11k Tach
Spek Pro 100-300 degree Water Temp gauge
Spek Pro 100-300 degree Oil Temp gauge
Spek Pro 0-120 PSI Oil Pressure gauge
Spek Pro 0-15 PSI Fuel Pressure gauge
I have the Tach working on the new board but am a little confused on the wiring for the other gauges.
I will attach the wiring for the above gauges in the following posts. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Fuel Pressure wiring.
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Oil Pressure wiring
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Oil Temperature wiring
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Water Temperature wiring
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Ok, I may have figured this out but I believe I have a problem with my Pro Gauge board.
I have no problem powering up the gauges, same as before I had the Pro Gauge. I took the red/wht wire Pin 2 from the above temperature diagram and inserted it in S1 of the Pro Gauge.
I took the black wire from Pin 3 the sensor ground and inserted it in the Pro Gauge ground.
Configuring the gauge in the software did move the needle but it is VERY sensitive. At a setting of 52 in the config the needle is maxed out. I cannot get accurate 25% 50% 75% and 100%. As a matter of fact I cannot get the needle at 100 degrees (lowest on my 100-300 degree gauge) It won't go below 140 degrees.
I tried it in S2 and S3 on the Pro Gauge and could get it down to 100 degrees but it is still way too sensitive to have the gauges read accurately matching iracing in game gauges. Each single number click up in the software moves the needle way too much making for the difficulty setting the gauge up.
Cristiano or anyone do you think my board may be bad. Is there something I am missing?
Thanks
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Ok, I may have figured this out but I believe I have a problem with my Pro Gauge board.
I have no problem powering up the gauges, same as before I had the Pro Gauge. I took the red/wht wire Pin 2 from the above temperature diagram and inserted it in S1 of the Pro Gauge.
I took the black wire from Pin 3 the sensor ground and inserted it in the Pro Gauge ground.
Configuring the gauge in the software did move the needle but it is VERY sensitive. At a setting of 52 in the config the needle is maxed out. I cannot get accurate 25% 50% 75% and 100%. As a matter of fact I cannot get the needle at 100 degrees (lowest on my 100-300 degree gauge) It won't go below 140 degrees.
I tried it in S2 and S3 on the Pro Gauge and could get it down to 100 degrees but it is still way too sensitive to have the gauges read accurately matching iracing in game gauges. Each single number click up in the software moves the needle way too much making for the difficulty setting the gauge up.
Cristiano or anyone do you think my board may be bad. Is there something I am missing?
Thanks
The only spek gauges that work with the controller at this time are the temp gauges and Tach and Speedo.
To hook up your Spek Temp gauges you need to use only..
Pin 12 (Ground Black) Connect to Ground on controller
Pin 8 (12VDC Red) Connect to 12VDC on Conrtoller
Pin 3 (Black) Connected to same ground as above
Pin 2 (Temp Input-RED) to S1-S2-S3..ect
When you go to the software you need to set the 0,25,50,75,100 to
0=100 when you set this you need to click the up arrow till the needle moves, that sets the software to send the data starting at that point. so make sure you click it slow till the needle moves and no more after it moves. Then set the rest of the values below.
50=200
75=250
100=300
and on the bottom select the proper Guage and either C or F.
The in the MIN, MAX area put..
MIN=100
Max=300
I have my temp gauges set up and reading right on the money, you might want to reset the gauges to factory default (see manuals for gauges)
If you still need help you can reach me here or over at iRacing under the same name.
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Mike,
That is exactly how I connected them. (understand the pressure gauges not working at this time)
My problem is the sensitivity when setting the percentages in the software. For example, when setting the 50%, which like you said would be right at 200 for my gauge, I cannot get it right on 200. One click of a number is to low and the next click is to high. It is this way for all percentages. Therefore I am not accurate within iracing. Both gauges water and oil do the same thing. I reset gauges back to default which did not help. Also as mentioned above, when connecting either gauge to S1 I cannot get the gauge below 140 degree even if the slider in the software is set to 0.
Can you tell me the numbers in the software you have your gauges calibrated at? Here is what mine are to get as close as possible but not too accurate in iracing.
Water
0% - 17
25% - 30
50% - 37
75% - 44
100% - 53
Oil
0% - 17
25% - 31
50% - 39
75% - 46
100% - 54
As you can see I am barely incrementing the numbers and getting full range. This makes it not as granular as I believe it should be for accurate settings.
Quick note: the Tach works perfect. It takes large increments of the numbers to barely move the Tach needle. This makes it right on the money.
Thanks again for any help.
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Oil Temp
0%=25
25%=41
50%=60
75%=79
100%=92
Water Temp
0%=10
25%=25
50%=46
75%=64
100%=76
Now I have the 10 pin versions, I have no idea if that has anything to do with it but that is what I have mine set to.
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Cristiano,
Do you think I have a problem with my Pro Gauge? I am fairly certain S1 has an issue since I cannot get the needle to go below 140 degrees on either gauge when plugged into S1.
Also like I said above, I cannot get any of the percentages to be exact. One number is too low and the next number goes too high above the desired percent.
Example: Trying to set the water gauge to 50% I use 37 in the software this is below 200 degrees which is my 50% range for that gauge. (100-300 is the range) If I increment the software to 38 it goes above 200 degrees. I cannot get any of the percentages exactly on the correct temp reading. One number is too low and then next number is too high.
The Tach works perfect. Very small needle movement for each number change. I can make perfect accuracy on the tach.
Please let me know what I need to do. If my board is bad, how can I get a replacement?
Thanks
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If the water temp gauge has a warning light is there a way to set the temp to activate the warning light.
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I think there are some sort of incompatibility with some ProSpec gauges.
I have been investigating them, because mikeperry has a similar issue.
It would be useful to nake a list of the gauges that for some reasons don't work well.
I will contact you by email, so that I can replace your controller if you think the problem is there, but personally I think it is down to an incompatibility with the gauge.
Regards
Cristiano
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Cristiano,
Got the new board and everything works well. The needle moves less per increment in the software making it possible to be much more accurate at the percents in the calibration. S1 now works just like the other inputs.
All in all everything is great.
Thanks
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Hi Guys, I don't mean to hijack your thread. if you need me to move this or delete, im cool 8). I've received my progauge board , thanks Cristiano :D
I just wanted to add, the Proparts Fuel gauges works well, (I've got the one with 10 pins) followed the instruction from this thread and got it all working. went and test with trucks, nationwide and Mx5 ( since I use Fuel% and I divided the max fuel for each car by 8 to see if when fuel is depleted by that figure, the pins should hit the mark between, Full and 3/4, or 3/4 and 1/2), it got really close by 1mm and sometimes spot on and im pretty happy with it.
Also the water temp is pretty much spot on. so now Im waiting for the proparts 5" tach to arrive.
Special Thanks to MikePerry for answering everyone's question on iracing forum and this forum, re wiring and compatibility (keep them videos running mate- loving it)
will post more once I can figure out how am I going to mount them in front of the wheel.
cheers,
Marcus
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Hello guys,
First of all, I'm french so I'm sorry if my english is not perfect !
I'm trying to use my Alfa 33 gauges... but something is going wrong with the speedometer. Photos of the clusters are attached to this message.
As you can see on the second photo, the signal has got a strange way to go to the speedo. There are several calculators (the number 2 on the second photo and the cards wired on the speedo). The odometer is mechanical and I want to keep it with the Pro Gauge.
The stuff is, when I wire the signal from the progauge to the cluster, my RPM is going crazy ! I have to put a very high number to the speedo in simdash to get the RPM stable, and in any way the speedo never moves. Sometimes I can get it at full speed, it's like an on/off button.
The idea I have is to put a kind of a regulator which will be weld directly on the 12v and GND of the speedo's motor. This regulator will receive the 12v and the GND from the Progauge and the Spd signal will regulate the voltage. Is it possible to make something like that ? If it is, what's the name of this regulator (link if possible !).
To be more clear, here the scheme of the idea :
ProGauge ==> 12v, GND, SPD ==> Regulator/variator ==> 12V, GND ==> Speedometer
I hope you can help me, and tell me if you need more details. I have the electronic scheme of the clusters if needed... but I don't think it'll helps you.
(http://i1068.photobucket.com/albums/u448/Some944/Symprojects/d132e15f-aae2-4d95-b59b-71ab74202630.jpg~original) (http://s1068.photobucket.com/user/Some944/media/Symprojects/d132e15f-aae2-4d95-b59b-71ab74202630.jpg.html)
(http://i1068.photobucket.com/albums/u448/Some944/Symprojects/11885f3a-8d19-4eec-bb2f-79ad9f4e5b31.jpg~original) (http://s1068.photobucket.com/user/Some944/media/Symprojects/11885f3a-8d19-4eec-bb2f-79ad9f4e5b31.jpg.html)
(http://i1068.photobucket.com/albums/u448/Some944/Symprojects/88bf65de-d627-4904-864d-c3b0a2f9f73a.jpg~original) (http://s1068.photobucket.com/user/Some944/media/Symprojects/88bf65de-d627-4904-864d-c3b0a2f9f73a.jpg.html)
(http://i1068.photobucket.com/albums/u448/Some944/Symprojects/60aab060-a197-42cd-8555-b4de0f1fe657.jpg~original) (http://s1068.photobucket.com/user/Some944/media/Symprojects/60aab060-a197-42cd-8555-b4de0f1fe657.jpg.html)
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Hello Somethings.
it is possible the type of signal that the dashboard expects is not compatible with the type of signal generated by the Rev Burner or Pro-Gauge
Hello guys,
First of all, I'm french so I'm sorry if my english is not perfect !
I'm trying to use my Alfa 33 gauges... but something is going wrong with the speedometer. Photos of the clusters are attached to this message.
As you can see on the second photo, the signal has got a strange way to go to the speedo. There are several calculators (the number 2 on the second photo and the cards wired on the speedo). The odometer is mechanical and I want to keep it with the Pro Gauge.
The stuff is, when I wire the signal from the progauge to the cluster, my RPM is going crazy ! I have to put a very high number to the speedo in simdash to get the RPM stable, and in any way the speedo never moves. Sometimes I can get it at full speed, it's like an on/off button.
The idea I have is to put a kind of a regulator which will be weld directly on the 12v and GND of the speedo's motor. This regulator will receive the 12v and the GND from the Progauge and the Spd signal will regulate the voltage. Is it possible to make something like that ? If it is, what's the name of this regulator (link if possible !).
To be more clear, here the scheme of the idea :
ProGauge ==> 12v, GND, SPD ==> Regulator/variator ==> 12V, GND ==> Speedometer
I hope you can help me, and tell me if you need more details. I have the electronic scheme of the clusters if needed... but I don't think it'll helps you.
(http://i1068.photobucket.com/albums/u448/Some944/Symprojects/d132e15f-aae2-4d95-b59b-71ab74202630.jpg~original) (http://s1068.photobucket.com/user/Some944/media/Symprojects/d132e15f-aae2-4d95-b59b-71ab74202630.jpg.html)
(http://i1068.photobucket.com/albums/u448/Some944/Symprojects/11885f3a-8d19-4eec-bb2f-79ad9f4e5b31.jpg~original) (http://s1068.photobucket.com/user/Some944/media/Symprojects/11885f3a-8d19-4eec-bb2f-79ad9f4e5b31.jpg.html)
(http://i1068.photobucket.com/albums/u448/Some944/Symprojects/88bf65de-d627-4904-864d-c3b0a2f9f73a.jpg~original) (http://s1068.photobucket.com/user/Some944/media/Symprojects/88bf65de-d627-4904-864d-c3b0a2f9f73a.jpg.html)
(http://i1068.photobucket.com/albums/u448/Some944/Symprojects/60aab060-a197-42cd-8555-b4de0f1fe657.jpg~original) (http://s1068.photobucket.com/user/Some944/media/Symprojects/60aab060-a197-42cd-8555-b4de0f1fe657.jpg.html)
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Thanks for the answer !
When I see all the cards which are calculating the signal I'm not really estonished...
Do you think that my idea to put a variator to set the voltage of the speedo's motor can work ? You know like a potentiometer but automatic with SPD signal.
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Up to this thread with my gauges. I found a solution to keep my cluster with taking 2 rev motors : 1 for real revs, and 1 for speed. Seperately it works perfectly but when I connect everything on the Progauge, the speed is going crazy after 120km/h.
I suppose that my Progauge got a problem because it worked fine while testing but not when all the other gauges are set up on the card. An other thing the power supply is really really hot after 5mn ! I don't know if it's normal...
Please help me !!!
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If the power supply gets hot, it could be becuase it is too small for the dashboard.
the power supply you have received is 1A.
I bet you need a bigger one. I would go for 3A.
I can help you to find one if you tell me where you live.
Regards
Cristiano
Up to this thread with my gauges. I found a solution to keep my cluster with taking 2 rev motors : 1 for real revs, and 1 for speed. Seperately it works perfectly but when I connect everything on the Progauge, the speed is going crazy after 120km/h.
I suppose that my Progauge got a problem because it worked fine while testing but not when all the other gauges are set up on the card. An other thing the power supply is really really hot after 5mn ! I don't know if it's normal...
Please help me !!!
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If the power supply gets hot, it could be becuase it is too small for the dashboard.
the power supply you have received is 1A.
I bet you need a bigger one. I would go for 3A.
I can help you to find one if you tell me where you live.
Regards
Cristiano
Thanks a lot for replying !
I tried again and each rev works alone but never together. If I link the second gauge, the first one goes crazy... An other detail, this problem is there even if I just activate the gauge in simdash without testing anything. Do you confirm the power supply problem ? I'm really wondering if the board is ok or not.
An other thing I noticed is when I try in a game the speedo (Race07 and Rfactor), if I reach the max speed of the gauge (240km/h) the needle stop working and go back to 0. It works again when I drive at 239km/h. Can you tell me what's going wrong ?
I hope you'll be able to answer all my questions.
About the bigger power supply, I live in France I'm ok if you can tell send me a link to the product.
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Hello.
If the rev burners work correctly when you use one at the time, I believe the problem is with the power supply.
I suppose you are using 2 power supplies, one for each board.
what I would try is using only one power supply, connected in the usual way to one of the rev burners.
Then connect the + terminal and - terminal of one rev burner to the + terminal and - terminal of the other rev burner. So that the second rev burner receives power too.
Please let me know if this works.
regarding the problem when you reach 240 km/h, can you just configure the speedometer to not reach that speed? when you configure the 100% slider for the speed in SimDash, make the needle stop at 239, so it never reaches 240 km/h
I know it is not ideal but it could bet an easy fix if it works.
regards
Cristiano
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I think that my explanations are not totally clear because I'm using the Pro Gauge, not any rev burner !
I made a video to show you what's going on with the board. Each gauge tested are totally indepedent. I tried to describe everything in the description of the video + IN the video with subtitles.
You'll see that there is a problem between RPM and SPD settings but I don't understand why.
If you have any question or if you need any photo tell me and I'll give the maximum detail.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aOPp99PkHqQ&feature=youtu.be
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I have purchased a symprojects Progauge to upgrade my Revburner and I have a problem with my Water temp gauge.
I purchased the following 2 Spek fuel gauge and water - to match my 5inch Spek ProTach.
Fuel
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Spek-2-1-16-Fuel-level-gauge-White-Black-Silver-/151087333868?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item232d81c1ec&vxp=mtr
Water
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Spek-Pro-2-1-16-Water-Temp-Gauge-White-Black-Silver-/151086961642?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item232d7c13ea
I have them all wired up and in iracing the Fuel and tach are working great but the water temp is not correct at all.
In the symprojects software I have it calibrated to min 100F and max 300F and all the percentages line up, however in game is lags behind the game temps and eventually catches up but it is not real time like the others.
What am I missing?
Brad
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Hi.
Just a question, when you calibrate the gauge in SImDash, and you press the 0%, 25%, 50%, 75% and 100% test buttons in the configuration screen, does the needle move to the right positions?
thank you
I have purchased a symprojects Progauge to upgrade my Revburner and I have a problem with my Water temp gauge.
I purchased the following 2 Spek fuel gauge and water - to match my 5inch Spek ProTach.
Fuel
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Spek-2-1-16-Fuel-level-gauge-White-Black-Silver-/151087333868?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item232d81c1ec&vxp=mtr
Water
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Spek-Pro-2-1-16-Water-Temp-Gauge-White-Black-Silver-/151086961642?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item232d7c13ea
I have them all wired up and in iracing the Fuel and tach are working great but the water temp is not correct at all.
In the symprojects software I have it calibrated to min 100F and max 300F and all the percentages line up, however in game is lags behind the game temps and eventually catches up but it is not real time like the others.
What am I missing?
Brad
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Yes it does Cristiano
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So tonight I did a bunch of testing.
- Tried the temp gauge in a different port on the Pro Gauge - same result
removed all gauge except the temp gauge - same result
tried a different USB port same result
I then in simdash viewed the data as iracing ran and the water temp rose but the gauge did not.
It must be a faulty gauge I think.
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my idea of the problem is the follow: in SimDash you configure the gauge at 5 position: 0%, 25%, 50%, 75% and 100%
Say that the 0% position corresponds to 40 degree C and the 25% corresponds to 60 degree C
if temperature in the game is 50 degree C for example, the needle position is calculated interpolating the 0% and 25% positions, assuming that the needle postion is linear between there values.
but maybe it is not.
basically what I am trying to say is that it would be better to have intermediate configuration positions between 0% and 25%, that is: 0%, 12.5%, 25%
same thing for the other ranges.
bit confusing but I hope you are getting it.
I will try to make this change in the next release.
Regards
Cristiano
So tonight I did a bunch of testing.
- Tried the temp gauge in a different port on the Pro Gauge - same result
removed all gauge except the temp gauge - same result
tried a different USB port same result
I then in simdash viewed the data as iracing ran and the water temp rose but the gauge did not.
It must be a faulty gauge I think.
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Thanks so you think this may simply be a calibration issue not a gauge issue?
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regarding the problem when you reach 240 km/h, can you just configure the speedometer to not reach that speed? when you configure the 100% slider for the speed in SimDash, make the needle stop at 239, so it never reaches 240 km/h
I know it is not ideal but it could bet an easy fix if it works.
regards
Cristiano
Hello !
I tried this solution with the new ProGauge I received but it's not working at all.
The gauge is set to 240km/h in simdash and when a game reaches 241km/h (Precisely !), the gauge stops working and goes to 0 km/h. It seems that simdash is not keeping the frequency stable at 100% over 240km/h. I mean, as for rev counter which is configured to 8000 rpm, if I drive a car to 12 000 rpm, the needdle stays to 8000 rpm. Maybe there is not the same "code" in simdash which tell to the board to stay at 100% if the speed is over the max speed set up in simdash. Can you confirm this ? Have you ever encounter a problem like this one ?
I test with an other gauge and the problem is exactly the same.
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Hi.
when the speed if above 240 km/h the speedometer is supposed to stay at 240, not 0 Km/h.
it sounds like a bug in the software. what is the top speed of the speedomter?
regarding the problem when you reach 240 km/h, can you just configure the speedometer to not reach that speed? when you configure the 100% slider for the speed in SimDash, make the needle stop at 239, so it never reaches 240 km/h
I know it is not ideal but it could bet an easy fix if it works.
regards
Cristiano
Hello !
I tried this solution with the new ProGauge I received but it's not working at all.
The gauge is set to 240km/h in simdash and when a game reaches 241km/h (Precisely !), the gauge stops working and goes to 0 km/h. It seems that simdash is not keeping the frequency stable at 100% over 240km/h. I mean, as for rev counter which is configured to 8000 rpm, if I drive a car to 12 000 rpm, the needdle stays to 8000 rpm. Maybe there is not the same "code" in simdash which tell to the board to stay at 100% if the speed is over the max speed set up in simdash. Can you confirm this ? Have you ever encounter a problem like this one ?
I test with an other gauge and the problem is exactly the same.
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Hi.
when the speed if above 240 km/h the speedometer is supposed to stay at 240, not 0 Km/h.
it sounds like a bug in the software. what is the top speed of the speedomter?
The top speed is 240km/h maximum, you can see the full cluster in the first picture of my post here http://www.symprojects.com/forum/index.php?topic=781.msg4183#msg4183 (http://www.symprojects.com/forum/index.php?topic=781.msg4183#msg4183)
Thanks a lot for replying !
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I will check today if there is a bug in the software.
Can you do this test for me please?
set maximum speed to 200 km/h in Simdash and tell me what happens when speed is greater than 200.
does the speedometer stay at 200 or does it go to 0 km/h?
thanks
Hi.
when the speed if above 240 km/h the speedometer is supposed to stay at 240, not 0 Km/h.
it sounds like a bug in the software. what is the top speed of the speedomter?
The top speed is 240km/h maximum, you can see the full cluster in the first picture of my post here http://www.symprojects.com/forum/index.php?topic=781.msg4183#msg4183 (http://www.symprojects.com/forum/index.php?topic=781.msg4183#msg4183)
Thanks a lot for replying !
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Ok I tried several speeds and the problem is always the same. 1 km/h more than the max speed in simdash turns off the speedo (needle goes back to 0).
I've tested 150, 200, 240 and 260 km/h and each time : 151, 201, 241 and 261 km/h the needle goes to 0.
Games I'm using : Race07, GT Legends and Rfactor, the three gave the smae results.
Waiting for your instruction if you want me to make an other tests ;)
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Ok. so it is definitely a bug in SimDash.
Will try to fix it quickly.
Regards
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I think I have fixed the bug.
if you don't want to wait until next release of SImDash you can use this preliminary version:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/3544050/SimDash.Beta.rar
Grid2 and Euro Truck Sim 2 plugins are still work in progress so they don't worl well yet
Regards
Ok. so it is definitely a bug in SimDash.
Will try to fix it quickly.
Regards
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Woaaaah ! I just tried with Rfactor and this is perfect ! The needle goes to 240 and... stays even at faster speed ! I didn't try with the other games for now, but I'm sure that you solved the problem. I'll tell you if there's something wrong.
Thanks a lot for your efficiency !
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Hi there folks. :)
I'm new here but not to sim racing.
Some of you might know me from the AC forums, i'm aka "splitpbt" over @nogrip.
I searched the forum and could'nt find anything specific to the question i'd like to ask you, so thought i would post in here.
Hope you don't mind.
Anyways... i just received a "pro gauge board + fuel level gauge(chrome bezel)" - thanks for sending them.
Everything looks ok on inspection, but i have a wiring question:
I know how/where to connect the +, ground and signal - but the gauge has backlight(orange or yellow).
There is two resistors supplied with it 150ohm and 2kohm - are they just for connecting to a 24v circuit because i really don't want to take the chance.
Wiring Diagram:
http://imageupper.com/i/?S0300010100011Z13811631981058323](http://s03.imageupper.com/1_t/10/Z13811631981058323_1.jpg)
Any help would be greatly appreciated mafrien's.
ps. planning on building a whole dash with max number of gauges hooked-up to spare pc psu.
Edit: nm folks... went to marinewebsite - fully explained about the resistors and 24v circuit. ;D
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Hello.
You don't need to use the resistors.
connect the wires as follow:
- Yellow or Orange wire connects to 12V on the Pro-Gauge. Connect only one, depending on the color of the backlight you want.
- Black wires is the sensor wire. Connect to S1...S6. one of them
- Red wire connect to 12V on the Pro-Gauge
- Blue wire connect to GND on the Pro-Gauge
Regards
Cristiano
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Snip...
Hello.
You don't need to use the resistors.
connect the wires as follow:
Regards
Cristiano
Thanks for speedy reply and help Cristiano. :)
I just plan to use a switch to toggle the backlighting colours.
Although, 2 questions i do have is:
1./ I have a set of old Fazer 600 clocks setup and everything is very accurate. 160mph/15000rpm
Soooo... all the lighting just connects to the to the +12v and works(i've already confirmed this).
But the fuel low/engine temp warning lights in tacho. etc -
if... i just connected them to 12v also, would the "Pro-Gauge board" tell the clocks to display them.
ie.fuel low warning light coming on.
2./ I've noticed that my speedo can go way past 160mph(enough room to sweep up to approx 185/190mph).
if... i set the speedometer in "configure gauges" say to 185mph and configured it to read correctly -
could that damage the "Pro-Gauge board" or the speedo.
Again, tvmia cristiano.
You and the rest of the guys help is very much appreciated.
ps. I'm thinking the "Pro-Gauge board" is just acting like the ECU.
pps. It woud be great to be able to connect a "Gear Status Indicator/Guage" to the board. ;D
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Hi.
I don't think you will be able to drive the fuel low & engine warning lights.
I don't know the clocks you are using so I can't be 100% sure but I can't think of any way they would work.
you should have no problems pushing the speedo up to 185 mph. the pro-gauge definitely doesn't have any. I think the speedo will be fine too.
regards
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snip...
you should have no problems pushing the speedo up to 185 mph. the pro-gauge definitely doesn't have any. I think the speedo will be fine too.
regards
Hi there. :)
I tried configuring gauge to read 185mph but as soon as it hits the slightest bit by 160mph in GTR2, it jumps clockwise straight to the needle rest.
Then when the car drops speed below and to 160mph(off throttle or breaking for corner) the needle jumps back anti-clockwise to read correct speed again.
Also you are correct, the warning light don't come on.
Oh well... looks like i'll need to customise the dial face on the speedo.
Again, thanks for your help cristiano.
Most appreciated mafrien',
paulie...
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Hey,
First - really great quality job you have done.
I got E36 dash too and wondering, what simproject boards did you use to make everything work?
I guess they are but different today and cant find same that you used.
Could somebody link me boards to buy to make everything work? I live in UK :)
Do I need two redburners or one progauge?
Thanks for reply!:)
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Hey,
First - really great quality job you have done.
I got E36 dash too and wondering, what simproject boards did you use to make everything work?
I guess they are but different today and cant find same that you used.
Could somebody link me boards to buy to make everything work? I live in UK :)
Do I need two redburners or one progauge?
Thanks for reply!:)
I use pro-gauge and a BMW e36 M3 cluster and all needles work perfectly ;)
BTW, if you use 2 rev-burner only speed and rpm will work.