SymProjects Forum
General Category => General Discussions => Topic started by: shaun_king on June 15, 2013, 01:20:16 pm
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I'm currently making a cockpit and thought it would be interesting to put some walk-through pic up to get
feedback from you guys.
Here is my rig. It is constructed from 3mm angle & square steel. It uses a G27 force feedback steering wheel that
is modified with a chilicoke (http://www.chilicoke.com/logitechwheel/g27adapter.htm) adapter to hold a 330mm width OMP rally wheel with 90mm of dish. It's an awesome
wheel. The G27 pedals are reverse mounted and the steel frame holds an old Golf GTI seat. The stock G27 paddles
were unreachable with the new dished wheel so I had to fabricate some stainless steel paddles of my own. It's mounted
on a platform to raise the simulator to a hight that is similar to that of a real car. The steering column cantilevers
so entry in and out of the simulator is easy; legs swing in and out of the footwell without knocking on any central or
side posts like in some simulators. Check out how we use it in our university time trial simulator meetings
here: http://youtu.be/aeu1IHoQUz4
(http://hutchinsonsimulators.files.wordpress.com/2012/12/imag0713.jpg?w=800)
(http://hutchinsonsimulators.files.wordpress.com/2012/12/imag0720.jpg?w=400)(http://hutchinsonsimulators.files.wordpress.com/2012/12/imag0710.jpg?w=400)
To start the design process I produced a couple of sketches to visualise the how the gauges would interact
with the rest of the frame and the cockpit dashboard that I will eventually produce from fibreglass.
The quick airbrush sketch at the bottom of the page is probably my final direction but the gauge instruments
will probably need to come towards the driver just a wee bit. They are currently placed in the zone below
the bonnet line and above the obscuration line of the steering wheel. When the glass fibre dash is made
I’ll do a bit of body-storming to see how it feels.
(http://hutchinsonsimulators.files.wordpress.com/2013/04/dash011.jpg?w=800)
Simprojects (http://www.symprojects.com) parts arrive, Whoop whoop!
(http://hutchinsonsimulators.files.wordpress.com/2013/04/symprojects_bits1.jpg?w=800)
Looked on the internet and found that others had great success attaching Kawasaki ZX6R revcounter linear motors to
revburners. I found a pair about on the internet for £15 each from motorbike breaker yards on eBay. Attaching them
was really easy. The three connectors on the back directly correlate with the [ S1 ], [ + ] & [ - ] outputs on the
revburner.
(http://hutchinsonsimulators.files.wordpress.com/2013/04/imag1046.jpg?w=400)(http://hutchinsonsimulators.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/imag10381.jpg?w=400)
Once all the components were safely in my grasp I measured all the parts and produced a 83 degree
crescent gap graphical design on the dials to represent the restricted mechanical movement of the linear
motors under the needles. Also the RPM & Speed are calibrated with rFactor’s 1974 F1 & Lotus 98t
simulator mods with a maximum values of 12,000RPM/200MPH. New gauge graphics will be produced for
other cars/mods.
(http://hutchinsonsimulators.files.wordpress.com/2013/04/instruments01.gif?w=800)
Rough technical sketches were drafted to envisage how the gauge design would integrate with the whole assembly.
(http://hutchinsonsimulators.files.wordpress.com/2013/04/cluster_cross-section.jpg?w=800)
I used a software program call Alias Automotive (http://www.autodesk.co.uk/products/autodesk-alias-products/features) CAD to sculpt the shape of the instrument cluster. It is regularly used
in creative artistic automotive design studios. You can output parts to lasercutters and 3D printers very easily from
this program so it is great for prototyping. The shape was made to extenuates the dog-bone curves of the gauge
graphic.
(http://hutchinsonsimulators.files.wordpress.com/2013/04/instrument-cluster.jpg?w=800)
I wanted some convincing that the final instrument cluster was going to look okay so I decided that bashing out some
renders on Keyshot (http://www.keyshot.com). was the only way to decrease the mystery factor concerning the aesthetics and assembly.
I assembled a WIP cluster with a nice bit of carbon fibre fablon... cos everything looks better with carbon fibre – LOL.
The exploded views that show Volkwagen Polo donor needles, lasercut graphical gauge & steel subframe, subtractive
milled covers, servomotors, LCD displays, spacers, nuts, bolts, and revburner PCBs to drive the tachometer and
speedometer servomotors. In terms of the finishing the prototype; it needs rear vents, a stand, and locking tabs to
keep the assemble together while burning around on the racing simulator. Also need to add a lighting channel to
illuminate the dials.
(http://hutchinsonsimulators.files.wordpress.com/2013/04/exploded-wip_cluster07.jpg?w=800)
(http://hutchinsonsimulators.files.wordpress.com/2013/04/assembled-wip_cluster01.jpg?w=800)
A mock gauge was produce immediately after this as I was happy that the final instrument cluster would be satisfactory.
Click the this youTube link http://youtu.be/VUs8Tr_Xqqs to see the mock running assembly.
(http://hutchinsonsimulators.files.wordpress.com/2013/04/dscf9013.jpg?w=800)
Steel & acrylic lasercuts were fabricated from the CAD data. The steel frame black needs to be simply blacked out
with paint so it completely darkens the area behind the translucent gauge graphic. The transparent acrylic lasercut
came out well, I just needed to use a black tint vinyl or spray tint to make the transparent acrylic a dark translucent
colour that the LEDs can shine through.
(http://hutchinsonsimulators.files.wordpress.com/2013/04/dscf9054.jpg?w=800)
(http://hutchinsonsimulators.files.wordpress.com/2013/04/steel.jpg?w=400)(http://hutchinsonsimulators.files.wordpress.com/2013/04/dscf9056.jpg?w=400)
(http://hutchinsonsimulators.files.wordpress.com/2013/04/dscf9059.jpg?w=800)
The next step was to investigate different tiniting options so I could get a nice clean looking gauge fascia that would
look like the the original drawings and only shows the lit numbers and not the unlit white parts of the GI Max & SPI-D.
Also the numbers are easier to read with the tinted cover especially in the daytime when all the surfaces of the
instrument cluster are very well lit. You can see a wee bit of the white components that house the LEDs on the
symprojects PCB but the effect was very convincing. Below you can see photos of the instrument panel with and
without a tinted cover.
(http://hutchinsonsimulators.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/with_tinted_cover.jpg?w=400)(http://hutchinsonsimulators.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/without_tinted_cover.jpg?w=400)
I conducted some tests to test whether to use tint spray or tint vinyl. The visual clarity of the GI Max & SPI-D's
LED through the vinyl is excellent, in fact it is slightly better than the spray tint TBH. The application results are
excellent too, and superior to the spray tint by several measures of low time, low effort & high visual quality.
In the photo below you can see that there are a lot of particle on the spray tint, and the spray density is much
heavier around the edges. I think lots of light coats in a completely dust free environment can solve this problem,
however it is much easier and faster to produce an evenly coloured layer of colour on the transparent acrylic
sheet if you use vinyl in an regular partially dusty environment. The application of vinyl is about 3mins (see this
3 min application video here: http://youtu.be/vGg52tzZfbU), I can do it in a very similar time; I did a work
experience job in a sign writing company when I was young so I learnt how to apply wet vinyl with ease. Overall
the VINYL WINS. I got my 'Jet Black' vinyl from this eBay shop (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LIGHT-VINYL-Tint-Headlight-Taillight-Vehicle-Light-Transparent-ALL-COLOURS-/320953116384?pt=UK_Wallpaper&var=&hash=item76c2bbb863)
(http://hutchinsonsimulators.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/vinyl-cover3.jpg?w=800)
To get the number and line graphics onto the gauge I decided to make a custom stencil because dry transfers
would be too expensive and hand painted white artwork would look too messy and home made. I got my gauge
graphics stencil cut with a lasercutter. The application of the masking tape stencil was a careful affair to ensure that
there were no air holes or particles trapped under the monster 200mm width masking tape I bought from tapes direct (http://www.tapes-direct.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=863).
Once the making tape was safely applied to the transparent plastic I cut the graphics into the
masking tape with the laser. The laser was set to only cut the tape and not the acrylic. See the video of the
laser-cutting here: http://youtu.be/ZCLXjhHtuFY. I had to spend a night intricately peeling the numbers and
lines away so I could spray on the graphic with white primer.
(http://hutchinsonsimulators.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/dsc_0923.jpg?w=800)
The spray job with white primer worked out well. The only problems experienced were firstly, residue from the
masking tape as predicted by research colleague, and secondly, a bit of leakage that occurred when
the masking tape bubbled slightly here and there around the edges of the letter and lines. This first problem
was easily resolved, the stick residue came off easily with white spirits. The second problem with paint leakage
was resolved with a bit of gentle scalpel scraping once the residue was cleaned off and the paint had completely
hardened. Once the black vinyl was applied and the gauge assembled with the linear motors & LEDs it all looked
satisfactory. Initially the camera picked up some blotches that my eyes could just about see them in the real
world – good camera eh. From experience I suspected that when the soapy water (that was used to make a
perfectly smooth application) dries the blotches would disappear. The vinyl window frosting in my house did the
same, and indeed his was the case. After 8 hours or so the blotches disappeared. Overall I’m happy with the look
the gauge and the way it works with the linear motors, needles, and LED mechanical components.
(http://hutchinsonsimulators.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/dsc_0945.jpg?w=800)
Here is the near finished gauge just need to dye rev counter graphic red so it looks like the original design.
Just the cases to mill out now and a wee bit of lighting to illuminate the gauge graphics. See it working here in
this youTube video http://youtu.be/Pdgwh_2ai4M
(http://hutchinsonsimulators.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/dsc_0965.jpg?w=800)
I look forward to hear your comments (negative or positive). I'll make further updates as I progress :)
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WOW...nice diy...congrats,inform about future updates !
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That's a great job man.
That cluster looks awesome.
If you need help with something, just ask. we are all here to teach and learn, i guess :)
Greatings from Portugal
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Thanks very much guys :)
The whole process is a learning curve and I'm surprised that more things haven't gone wrong in the production of it. Originally I wanted to use a vinyl mask for the gauge graphics. This is what professional use, it leaves no sticky residue and you get virtually no paint leakages around the edges of the letters if the mask is applied properly. But the lasercutter wouldn't cut it for me because it produced toxic fumes when cut. and the traditional vinyl knife cutter wouldn't cut the highly detailed features of the graphics normally they suggest 2mm thickness of line work, and some of my letters were 1mm thick.
If you have any good ideas about gauges than i'd love to hear them :)
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STUNNING! :o its absolutely amazing man! Great job and give us more future updates :)
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Cheers Tryxinos :)
I'm gonna do a bit more work on it over the weekend so hopefully i'll have something more to show soon.
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I spent a bit of time alias modelling by candlelight and I think that I’m kinda happy with the
final direction of the gauge covers. I’m probably remake them one more time just to iron out
some of the surfacing kinks but ultimately I think I’m at the stage where I just want to start
producing something in RP (Rapid Prototype) to see it eye to eye. Just three sets of technical
details to go – Lighting channels, screw fixing lugs and recesses & stand fixtures – then I’m
ready for some soft foam parts maybe to check aesthetics and part fitments.
(http://hutchinsonsimulators.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/rear-cover-02.jpg?w=800)
(http://hutchinsonsimulators.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/rear-cover-04.jpg?w=800)
(http://hutchinsonsimulators.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/rear-cover-01.jpg?w=800)
(http://hutchinsonsimulators.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/rear-cover-00.jpg?w=800)
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Awesome 3d work man. I'm waiting to see that in real life all that stuff ;)
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a very nice design dude.
i know you said about building it from fibreglass, but is there any reason you don't get it 3d printed instead?
keep up the beautiful work.
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Absolutely, rapid prototyping is the way forward... To give more detail, the parts are going to be coated in a Carbon Fibre Fablon (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Carbon-Fibre-vinyl-wrap-4D-self-adhesive-Air-Free-1-Metre-x-30CM-Free-shipping-/221244948526?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item33833a002e), not made from carbon fibre. You know the stuff; the sticky-backed vinyl that chavs and car enthusiasts put on there car hoods to pimp out their cars. I'm gonna do the same to my covers. My covers will be some subtractively milled, I'm using subtractive milling instead of 3D printing because it is much cheaper to produce. The only cost I have is materials. I love the old milling machine, I like to use it in prototyping because you have to use similar design principles to that of injection moulding such as the use of draft angles, uni-lateral draw (i.e. the moulds come together and come apart in one direction only, so you can't design undercuts... unless your really craft about it). The advantage of doing this is that if you like a design and you want to take it further to high volume it is pre-designed for injection moulding; hence minimal changes need to me made to the CAD models to mass produce your design. In the past I have made some quite complex parts from subtractive milling. All the parts in this working control panel rendering, except the PCB boards, hydraulic struts and the screws/bolts were milled out with a 3mm fat bottomed milling bit:
(http://hutchinsonsimulators.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/tsahi-assembly-sketch-v5-81.jpg?w=1200)
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ahh. your first post said about making it from fibreglass.
i run my own lathe and milling machines, welding sets and all that (welder/fabricator by trade, but i prefer the old "boilermaker" title), and i also run a 3d printer, and the printer runs more than the other machines at the moment. so if you require anything gimme a shout or pm.
anyway, its a well thought out design, and i can't wait to see your design finished.
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LOL... Okay yes now I seen what I have been burbbling on about. Yes fibreglass, but for the dashboard not gauges :) I need to be clearer in the future.
Do you do fibre glass? The dashboard moulds have been made already. I was going to lay-up the gel coat, resin and glass myself because my PhD budget is so small. However I was thinking about outsourcing it if I could find a good price. mould is here, it is about 1.5m long:
(http://hutchinsonsimulators.files.wordpress.com/2012/12/194969_3819310194781_1645368633_o.jpg?w=600)
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i don't i'm afraid. used to in my younger days. i'm not sure you could get it done cheaper than doing it yourself. it's not too big and it doesn't appear to have any compound curves so it shouldn't take too long.
oh, and it was me assuming the gauges and dash were the same from your airbrushed illustrations. i blame you though for lacing your posts with such delicious illustrations and piccies, it makes it too easy to miss or miss read any bits of text that separate them ;).
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Oh well worth a try eh :) I might as well go for the DIY job as originally planned.
I'm just full of pictures, can't help it. Personally hate reading at the mo. God only knows how I'm gonna write a thesis. LOL
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More pictures... Yay! ;D ;D ;D
I've been working a bit more on my model to pull it up to a working prototype level that efficiently uses the CNN
machining facilities that I want to use. Every bit of time a material costs cash :/ So I started to look at the
production process of the instrumental cluster. It was un-necessarily complex as an assembly so I decided to
make some changes to simplify the production process of the display instruments.
SIMPLIFY..! :D
Main changes were to combine the old steel subframe, GI-Max & SPI-D spacers with the subframe cover.
I also combined the rear cover with the spacers for the Revburners as can be seen in picture below.
(http://hutchinsonsimulators.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/expolded-v2i1.jpg?w=1000)
(http://hutchinsonsimulators.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/expolded-v2e.jpg?w=1000)
(http://hutchinsonsimulators.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/expolded-v2h.jpg?w=1000)
(http://hutchinsonsimulators.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/expolded-v2g.jpg?w=1000)
Now I'm just waiting for a USB hub to arrive to see how it can be incorporated into that assembly then it
is done. Apart from the desk stand. I also added lighting channels that reflection light from the LEDs
embedded into the new 'main component frame' (named as such because everything hangs off it in the
new design). Needs a bit more work and time tweeting the renderings. The pictures below show some
updated rough renderings that reflect the new changes.
(http://hutchinsonsimulators.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/expolded-v2.jpg?w=1000)
(http://hutchinsonsimulators.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/expolded-v2d.jpg?w=1000)
(http://hutchinsonsimulators.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/expolded-v2c.jpg?w=1000)
(http://hutchinsonsimulators.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/expolded-v2b.jpg?w=1000)
Next step is to prepare the parts for CNC milling... and to solve any problems that occur.
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Wow!! Talk about commitment, bloody Fantastic!! ;D..Let me know when this goes into production...Order #1 please! (just kidding) But great work though! ;)
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LOL :D
It's not going into production... for now. If it was I'd need to do a very thorough business evaluation to start-up a small company to handle it. Also I'd need to do a proper evaluation for the cost of the parts. If I did it I'd personally want it to be quite an affordable unit; market research would be a massive need to ensure I hit the right price point. Potentially a redesign would need to be completed to help get the cost down to this price point. So.... it's a very very long way from being produced commercially. More of a bit of fun. TBH it is just a labour of love that I'm doing to help my PhD studies. That is it's main purposes. I just happen to be quite obsessive, so it can look like go over top sometimes ::)
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You got me thinking about it now you mentioned it... How much would you pay for one of these? This is just a hypothetical question BTW, I'm not expecting orders from you, i'm just seeing what people would be willing to pay for something like this ;D I'm thinking about producing a sexed up version with Cristiano's components that uses a much less expensive construction so I could drop the overall cost. LOL!
That is taking into consideration that the components from Cristiano would be £110 with maybe an addition of £25 for an effective working tachometer motor, then the cost of a case mouldings, needles, etc.
or.....
there is another option, I could design and manufacture an easily self-assembled case & stand so you could take current Symprojects components that you may already own and put them into it.
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Hi
Well considering I have just paid out almost £450 on a Fanatec CSW dashboard+Sli pro display..(don't get wrong, beautifully made, and loving it! ;) )...Personally that £450, I really did not mind at all for what I have...So I think that's great value ;)
So maybe that could be a ball park figure £400-£500-ish or there about ;) I know I would pay this price, and I'm not even what you would call an hardcore racer by any means..I have my CSW attached to my desk no fancy rig/cockpit...I know a friend of mine who is a hardcore iRacing fan...Just spent over £3,000 on a rig/cockpit and 3x27" monitors and a Fanatec CSW and v2 pedals.....So yeah, around £400-£500 sounds a good place to start ;)
Edit: Just to add, you may go lol! but you seem more than capable of making something really beautiful and yet practical, :) My dad used to say..."Son! From very small acorns large tree's grow" :) There's food for thought!
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"or.....
there is another option, I could design and manufacture an easily self-assembled case & stand so you could take current Symprojects components that you may already own and put them into it"
Personally I would prefered the "or....." option. :)
Denis 8)
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"or.....
there is another option, I could design and manufacture an easily self-assembled case & stand so you could take current Symprojects components that you may already own and put them into it"
Personally I would prefered the "or....." option. :)
Denis 8)
That could be down to personal taste, or even to people that, just don't have the time, or maybe just can't do it (for what ever reason) given the choice however, I would choose the fully made version...Your gonna just have to do the TWO versions lol :)
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wow that's beautiful, amazing piece of work awesome job
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Cheers sticky22
Just took my CAD files into the machine workshop today should be expecting the real cases back in a couple of weeks. Yay! ;D ;D
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Nice one!..Can't wait to see what it looks like for real ;)
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When they come back the surface will be rough because i used a soft-ish foam because it was cheaper. I'll have to spend a fare bit of time sanding, priming and painting them for this reason. shouldn't look too bad when they are finished though :)
Probably gonna design wee stand for them while i'm waiting for them to come back.
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When they come back the surface will be rough because i used a soft-ish foam because it was cheaper. I'll have to spend a fare bit of time sanding, priming and painting them for this reason. shouldn't look too bad when they are finished though :)
Probably gonna design wee stand for them while i'm waiting for them to come back.
Maybe it's time to invest in one of these printers: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8aghzpO_UZE
Can you just imagine what you could with one of them ;)
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Cool... we have Z-corp machines and 3D scanners at my uni... students use them all the time for 3D printing.
Mechanical engineering mainly use the scanner for their racecar builds and the more artistic use the Z-Corp
for their designs. I use both cos I'm a freak ::)
I made a scan of the assembled wheel module and seat with a FARO 3D scanner (http://www.faro.com/content.aspx?ct=uk&content=pro&item=1&subitem=0&tab=1). If any one wants a copy of the scan just
contact me and I can send it to you. The scan was a bit patchy, but was good enough to ensure that hole positions were
correctly positioned.
(http://hutchinsonsimulators.files.wordpress.com/2012/12/388821_2687539861230_1213577064_n.jpg?w=800)
I also scanned my seat:
(http://hutchinsonsimulators.files.wordpress.com/2012/12/462606_3460981676792_714638585_o.jpg?w=800)
After talking to folks outside the uni, I kinda realise that I am truly blessed to have so much crazy equipment around me.
I almost wanna give it all away to everyone to use cos i feel a bit selfish, but I'd get in trouble if i did that :)
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Just me again with a quick update. I've been working mock lighting assembly. Finally finished the speedometer and tachometer assembly.
I was a bit worried that the lights would drain power from the linear motors. In an illumination relation topic (http://www.symprojects.com/forum/index.php?topic=1439.0) I posted Cristiano said that it
should be okay so I moved forward with some confidence, however it was a relief to see it all work in the end cos my technical
production skills can be flawed at times. I suppose 1AMP was more than enough to push the 12v into the motors and LED’s. I
just need to get my hands on the RP cases, shorten the wires and all I need to do is paint the cases and design/fabricate a
stand for it. Getting there slowly.
(http://hutchinsonsimulators.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/lights.jpg?w=1000)
In the new assembly rendering below you can see how the new lighting assembly incorporates onto the main frame of the cluster. Only
slight mods were made to the frame to add spacers for the small PCB panel that hold the 12v LED resistors. I’m going to add switches
to the back of the rear cover so I can turn the lights on/off. The red dots on the image below shows the location of the switches in the
wiring system. Thought a bit of drama could be fun so I bought some covered aircraft aircraft switches. The LED mounting has changed
too to help stop light leakage.
(http://hutchinsonsimulators.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/frame-v2b.jpg?w=1000)
Also got a part back from the work shop. Above is a picture of the front cluster. All is going well in the production of
these. They need a bit of finishing because there are small ledges that are created because a short milling bit was
used for this one.
(http://hutchinsonsimulators.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/cut-front-cover.jpg?w=1000)
The next one is already on the plate and buzzing around. For those who like to watch short videos of repetitive work
machines click on the video link to get a 36 second blast of the frame being robotic sculpted from a block of sikatool:
http://youtu.be/8NYuG_VnZeo (http://youtu.be/8NYuG_VnZeo)
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The parts are arriving fast and furious.
The photos show it part assembled with the milling frame still supporting the most recent arrival. I’m a bit worried that the material that I’ve
used might be a bit soft at the moment. the whole structure is strengthened by the plastic gauge but if it breaks the breaks the next step
is to mill the same part out of a harder sikatool. Just waiting for the rear cover to coming in a then it’s time to prep & paint the surfaces.
(http://hutchinsonsimulators.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/1-part-cluster-front.jpg?w=1000)
(http://hutchinsonsimulators.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/1-part-cluster-rear1.jpg?w=1000)
(http://hutchinsonsimulators.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/2-part-cluster-rear1.jpg?w=1000)
(http://hutchinsonsimulators.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/2-part-cluster-front.jpg?w=1000)
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WOW it looks fantastic !!!
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WOW it looks fantastic !!!
Your not wrong there :) A WOW!! From me too
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Getting there you guys. I think I'm on the final straight.
However, today my toggle switches have arrived- Yay! Extremely excited with these switches for some reason. Think I've reached geek level: 'obsessive'.
These two red covered toggle switches will turn the lights on for each revburner dial. Think I need one more to cover the whole electric assembly as a
power on/off switch. Oh well, time to bang em onto Alias Automotive to visually check em out with the whole assembly. Think I'll put them on the back
of the rear cover to sex up the rear view of the cluster a bit. If it looks too mad I can easily tone it down by using a less flashy switch. When I've done
the renderings I'll pop em up to see what you guys think. Still thinking where to put the power switch; maybe somewhere discrete.
(http://hutchinsonsimulators.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/red-covered-toggle-switches.jpg?w=1000)
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Managed to bash out a couple of renderings to help visualise the fabulous red covered aircraft/rally style toggle switches that I'm considering using
in the rear covers. I'm currently wondering if they are a bit too much. The other option is to use regular switches that are a fair bit more discrete.
Mmmmm! decisions decisions eh. I created a poll on my simulator site please feel welcome to vote whether you think covers should be used or
not. Click here to go vote: http://hutchinsonsimulators.wordpress.com/2013/07/09/switch-covers-or-not (http://hutchinsonsimulators.wordpress.com/2013/07/09/switch-covers-or-not)
(http://hutchinsonsimulators.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/right-red-mad-switches.jpg?w=1000)
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Hey!..I have these switches already on my dashboard, they seem to high light the dash (mapped to Engine Start and Ignition )...Just my opinion though, they look to awesome to be putting them out of sight around the back... They scream out "Let me be seen, and used" I did vote though ;)
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Hey!..I have these switches already on my dashboard, they seem to high light the dash (mapped to Engine Start and Ignition )...Just my opinion though, they look to awesome to be putting them out of sight around the back... They scream out "Let me be seen, and used" I did vote though ;)
I know what you mean. I originally chose them to create some drama, However I know what you mean about the mapping of
critical controls with colour codes. Maybe a set of colour-ways is an option, ? I've completed a black & metal switch rendering.
Please feel free re-vote on the poll (http://hutchinsonsimulators.wordpress.com/2013/07/09/switch-covers-or-not). A toggle switch is there too so you can see it :)
(http://hutchinsonsimulators.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/righttop-chrome-mad-switches.jpg?w=300) (http://hutchinsonsimulators.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/righttop-chrome-mad-switches.jpg) (http://hutchinsonsimulators.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/righttopt-black-mad-switches.jpg?w=300) (http://hutchinsonsimulators.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/righttopt-black-mad-switches.jpg) (http://hutchinsonsimulators.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/without2.jpg?w=300) (http://hutchinsonsimulators.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/without2.jpg)
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Considering making quick wee stand just in case 'silly rabbits' force me to work on a desktop system. Think this one could be an easy one
to make with a CNC machine... mmm! See how things turn out eh.
(http://hutchinsonsimulators.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/rear-stand-01.jpg?w=1000) (http://hutchinsonsimulators.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/rear-stand-01.jpg)
(http://hutchinsonsimulators.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/front-stand01.jpg?w=1000) (http://hutchinsonsimulators.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/front-stand01.jpg)
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Final case part is back from the machine shop, look okay when assembled. Just the stands to produce now.
(http://hutchinsonsimulators.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/w01.jpg?w=1000)
(http://hutchinsonsimulators.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/w11.jpg?w=1000)
Successfully mounted the switches and I’m happy with the placement and the look of the them on the rear of the unit. With near enough all the
electrics mounted all is, waiting for now are some short USB cables to arrive from my eBay shop in Hong Kong. This is for two reasons. Firstly,
the current wires plugs on the Revburners collide with the switches, so elbowed plugs will be on the new cables. The 12v DC power plug elbows
have already arrived as seen in the photo below. Secondly, I want to reduce the length of the cables so they hold bettering the cluster case.
I also want to reduce the amount of wires that come out of the cluster so I intend to join the 4 new short USB cables from the two Revburners,
the GI-Max Gear indicator and the SPI-D digital speedometer together with the hub in the photo below so only one USB cable adorns from the
cluster. I want to experiment with the DC power cables too to see if I can join the two together so I only have one Power cable coming out of
the case.
(http://hutchinsonsimulators.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/w20.jpg?w=1000)
(http://hutchinsonsimulators.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/w21.jpg?w=1000)
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What about a remote controlled relay to switch backlight ON and OFF?
http://www.seeedstudio.com/depot/315mhz-wireless-car-key-fob-with-key-chain-battery-included-p-557.html?cPath=19_22
http://www.seeedstudio.com/depot/315mhz-codecadaptive-wireless-relay-p-550.html?cPath=19_22
Getting there you guys. I think I'm on the final straight.
However, today my toggle switches have arrived- Yay! Extremely excited with these switches for some reason. Think I've reached geek level: 'obsessive'.
These two red covered toggle switches will turn the lights on for each revburner dial. Think I need one more to cover the whole electric assembly as a
power on/off switch. Oh well, time to bang em onto Alias Automotive to visually check em out with the whole assembly. Think I'll put them on the back
of the rear cover to sex up the rear view of the cluster a bit. If it looks too mad I can easily tone it down by using a less flashy switch. When I've done
the renderings I'll pop em up to see what you guys think. Still thinking where to put the power switch; maybe somewhere discrete.
(http://hutchinsonsimulators.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/red-covered-toggle-switches.jpg?w=1000)
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any issues with changing the values on the gauges, I noticed that you changed the RPM to 1200 max vs what they were stock? I have a pair of Civic gauges and would like to add to the RPMs from 9000 to maybe 1200. not sure if going up will cause any issues or is it all in the way you configure it in the software.
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any issues with changing the values on the gauges, I noticed that you changed the RPM to 1200 max vs what they were stock? I have a pair of Civic gauges and would like to add to the RPMs from 9000 to maybe 1200. not sure if going up will cause any issues or is it all in the way you configure it in the software.
I had absolutely no problems when changing the values to 12,000 RPM, same with the speed. I plan to make several sets of gauges for different cars. You just need to adjust everything in simdash. It was extremely easy mr.w Once you have set them up I would suggest that youexport a XMP file of the settings so you don't have to calebrate all the settings time and time again if you want to keep changing the RPM values.
The XMP settings for my 12,000rpm & 200mph revburners are here if you want to have a mess around with them: http://www.mediafire.com/download.php?wyhgl6s2k6bcvrv
What about a remote controlled relay to switch backlight ON and OFF?
http://www.seeedstudio.com/depot/315mhz-wireless-car-key-fob-with-key-chain-battery-included-p-557.html?cPath=19_22
http://www.seeedstudio.com/depot/315mhz-codecadaptive-wireless-relay-p-550.html?cPath=19_22
Looks like an awesome idea I think that once I have sorted out the current system I will experiment with this :)
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I managed to finally install the LED lighting. As seen in the video below they work relatively well. Over all illumination is good on the
dials and there is no over spill to effect the red LEDs of the GI-Max and SPI-D components. I really like the way that they make the
car feel more realistic when they are pushed up against the screens.
(http://hutchinsonsimulators.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/dsc_0445w.jpg?w=1000) (http://youtu.be/Lyri15esTis)
[Click picture to see the video of the dials working]
The covers are desperately needed on these as the LEDs are extremely bright if you look straight into them. Production of those will have to start ASAP.
(http://hutchinsonsimulators.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/dsc_0477w.jpg?w=1000)
(http://hutchinsonsimulators.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/dsc_0490w.jpg?w=1000)
However, there are some drawbacks to using soft materials, the major one being that light can shine through it because of it's low density. The
picture below show this problem. One proposal that I may try is to use some blackout tape on the inside of the front cover to block out the
light then paint the tape white to help reflect the light back onto the dials. Gaffer tape of graphical line tape might do the job. Think bit of
experimentation won't hurt.
(http://hutchinsonsimulators.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/dsc_0478w.jpg?w=1000)
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Just me again... I got bored waiting for the china USB cables to arrive so I decided to make a quick flash object to visualise in an interactive fashion. Click the image
below to check it out.
(http://hutchinsonsimulators.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/qtvr1.jpg) (http://www.shaunhutchinson.com/clusterv2_2.html)
Please wait for this 5MB SWF Object file to load. This SWF Object needs Adobe Flash's plugin to work. Download here (http://get2.adobe.com/flashplayer/) to make the
SWF Object work if you are experiencing problems.
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WHA!!! Been away for a couple weeks, and come back to THIS!! ...This is just sooo amazingly Amazing, that it's just Amazing!....WoW!! did I say Amazing? When actually I meant "AMAZINGGGGGGGGGGG"!!!!
I want one, or at least, let me be a beta tester ;)
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I look every day in this forum, only to see if you have done something new.
This thing is SO STUNNING! To be honest, I've never seen anything better!!! :o :o :o
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are theses going into production at any point?
or are you going to sell kits of any kind?
You could make some money off theses things once the final prodcut is finalized, Obviously youd have to weigh up the pricing of parts etc
But if you just sell the case and let people buy the interior bits that would cut the cost down cosiderably i would imagine?
either way, youve made something excellent and cant wait to see more!
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@grum gti...That's already been discussed, earlier on in the thread...He might,(just might though) think about it ;)...How much would you pay for something like this?
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SwiftyOne's just about got it right Grum gti... at the moment it is a labour of love that I'm just doing for the sheer enjoyment. Will consider it in the
future tho. reckon I can make it in two pieces and I've found a source of motors from china. Soooooo, maybe! Until then I'm just retrospectively
reflecting on this prototype build to improve it, and chilling in front of TV - preparing the surfaces for the paintwork - while waiting for top gear
to come on:
(http://hutchinsonsimulators.files.wordpress.com/2013/08/prepw.jpg?w=1000)
(http://hutchinsonsimulators.files.wordpress.com/2013/08/dsc_0522w.jpg?w=1000)
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I understand its a labour of love, as mine is the same just put a mega order in with cristiano.. nearly £200 in fact... ouch hope the misses dosnt find out ;D im not hardcore sim racer either , Well i say that my rig has took me 2years to get where it is now on a tight budget and i use it daily on iracing / lfs and such! maybe we should all get a race on sometime?
on another note, what would i be willing to pay ? im not 100% sure on this one as personally id just buy the casings and faceplate then use the internals i already have (alfa romeo156 gauges are very easy to dismantle and easy to setup/use) buti suppose we should all worry about price once hes happy with the prototype.
its looking alot smoother on the eye now youve started preparing it for paint! and topgear was a good un this week, shame its the last in the series.
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Great job!!!! I was wondering what the dimensions are for the cutouts for the GI-Max and The SPI-D. Im inlaying them as well and i cant find a number for the SPID. I like how you left a little space around them.
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SPI-D: 46.1mm x 33.3mm
GI MAX: 63mm x 30mm
This was the dimension for my cutouts, I made them that big because the drill bit that is used to mill out the parts is round so the corners would be have a radius on them. Giving space around the edges ensured the parts would not clash with the radius.
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Just thought i'd add some more development pics to this thread. Has been a while but the old dials are still in progress:
I acquired carbon fibre vinyl and applied a patch to see how it would turn out if i wrapped it. Took some pictures in daylight to get a slightly more realistic perspective of the dial case. Currently looking for some matt dark grey paint to replace the matt black but over all I’m not too disappointed with the mix of textures which was my initial concern. decided not to vinyl the base because I felt it would have been too much. The switches were added to these pictures and although the red covers look effective in terms of catching the eye I’m not sure that the red colour works perfectly with the subtle mix of colours greys and black textures. However, the metal seems to blend in quite well. Maybe I need to try the chromed switch covers, if I can find them.
(http://hutchinsonsimulators.files.wordpress.com/2013/11/dsc_0028.jpg?w=1000)
(http://hutchinsonsimulators.files.wordpress.com/2013/11/dsc_0013.jpg?w=1000)
(http://hutchinsonsimulators.files.wordpress.com/2013/11/dsc_0035.jpg?w=1000)
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Hi Shaun! Might take a look at this process? :o http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrographics_%28printing%29
Thanks, great work 8)