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Messages - Mortos

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General Discussions / Re: USB cord do's and don'ts?
« on: July 01, 2014, 12:47:22 am »
USB cables tend to have their spec(1.0/1.1/2.0/3.0) printed on the sheath. Though this is not a guarantee of quality.

Stay away from cheap cables, especially(directly) from china. The wire and insulation materials used can seriously degrade performance, which translates into a slow and unreliable connection.

General Discussions / Re: Race07 Missing Info
« on: April 02, 2014, 02:06:40 am »
As you can see in the compatibility spreadsheet there is experimental support for things like the pit limiter and quite a few other indicators.

If there is data that should be available through the shared memory interface but is not yet implemented in simdash, it may become available later.

General Discussions / Re: Stepper Motor Gauges
« on: March 27, 2014, 07:02:18 pm »
Do many sims support a voltmeter in their telemetry?

No. In fact, if you check the compatibility spreadsheet there are none.

I doubt any racing sim developers are interested in implementing it either, most of them don't even have rudimentary engine management.

General Discussions / Re: Pro Gauge, DLC-247, and Displays questions.
« on: March 06, 2014, 11:43:34 pm »
I made a mistake on my Gear Indicator.. I knew I wanted the wire out the back style but bought the side port. The way I want to mount it wont work with the side mount.. But I noticed it has solder tabs and traces coming from the USB port.. Can I chop a USB cord and hard wire it??   If so what wire goes to what? 

If you have a GI Max, the holes should be labeled on the front(display side) of the PCB. According to wikipedia, the following should correspond to the markings on your GI Max:

+ (red wire)
D− (white wire)    
D+ (green wire)
- (black wire)

General Discussions / Re: Pro Gauge, DLC-247, and Displays questions.
« on: March 04, 2014, 10:15:04 am »
For the displays, as stated on the DLC-247 page any common anode display will work.
The Symprojects shop sells an 0.8"(20mm) and a 1.5"(38mm) display which are relatively close to the 25mm(1") you're looking for.

The ones sold in the shop come on a handy breakout board with a pin header so you can just plug them in and go.
If you get a display from a distributor(like mauser or digikey) you'll have the solder on some wires to be able to connect it to the DLC-247.

You might be able to find a broken out display on ebay or sites like adafruit and sparkfun, though if you get one with multiple digits you'd have to make sure the multiplexing is the same as the "official" Symprojects modules, I.E. segments connected together with a separate anode pin for each digit.

General Discussions / Re: Stepper Motor Gauges
« on: February 28, 2014, 09:27:01 pm »
The Pro-Gauge is compatible with both aircore and stepper driven gauges, though not with all models of either.

However, for smoothness, accuracy and a cool-looking "opening ceremony", stepper gauges are the way to go.

General Discussions / Re: Application error
« on: February 28, 2014, 09:22:22 pm »
It looks like a configuration file got corrupted. The uninstaller(like many) probably doesn't remove configuration files.

Have a look in "C:\Users\faro\AppData\Local\" for the "" folder. Either move that folder to somewhere else(like your desktop) or simply delete it(though you'll lose your configuration).

If Simdash still doesn't start, try one more reinstall(in case the installer needs to create default files for the program to work).

General Discussions / Re: Darn! pro-gauge is missing......
« on: February 23, 2014, 08:45:39 pm »
Wait, so if I understand this correctly, the TypeR worked at first, but not anymore?

Have you tried one of the other outputs(S2,S3, etc..)? Is the board still recognized(Green orb in Simdash)?

If you have a voltmeter you should measure the voltage between the "GND" and "12V" terminals of the pro gauge. Obviously this should be 12V. Try measuring with and without a gauge connected to see if there's a difference(It could be fine at rest, but dip in voltage under load).

General Discussions / Re: Darn! pro-gauge is missing......
« on: February 22, 2014, 09:47:30 pm »
From what limited detail I can see in the manual, the backlight should be an old-fashion lightbulb that sticks half way out the gauge.

To light this, all that should be required is connecting the black wire to ground and the red wire to +12V terminals on the Pro-Gauge.

Could you perhaps post a picture of how you've connected your gauge?

As for the power supply, 1A should be more than enough if you're only testing a single gauge.

If you get one working and find it behaves oddly when adding another, then you could consider a stronger power supply.

General Discussions / Re: Darn! pro-gauge is missing......
« on: February 21, 2014, 04:07:03 pm »
From what I can see the jumpers are used to change the resistor between the driver circuit and the gauge. Perhaps it's possible to substitute a through hole resistor between the output screw terminal and the gauge.

It's only a semi-educated guess, so I'd advise you to wait for Cristiano's response.

General Discussions / Re: Minimum gauge wire?
« on: February 02, 2014, 07:51:18 pm »
Neither rotary encoders or buttons(or switches) require any "real" current, so it should be fine.

It does depend on the length of your wiring, but as it's not a structured signal like ethernet(which, even with twisted pairs, isn't recommended over aluminium), interference/crosstalk/loss shouldn't be an issue.

I'd say if it works reliably with the cable you have, don't worry about it.

General Discussions / Re: Support posts for Pro Gauge and others
« on: February 01, 2014, 07:57:59 pm »
According to my calipers, the RevBurner V2 has 3.25mm mounting holes, if the Pro Gauge has the same diameter holes, M3 wouldn't fit according to this chart as it requires 3.4mm clearance. M2 only needs 2.4mm so should fit fine.

If by MB's you mean motherboards, those standoffs are 3.4mm diameter(so presumably M3) and don't fit my RevBurner.

All 3 of those support HID joysticks, so most likely yes.

The JC32 comes with a configuration utility which you will have to use to set up the rotary encoders so they'll work as buttons. When you've done this, turning the encoder will send a button(one per direction) press to your game, the same way a joystick(or steering wheel) would.

Mapping the keys to the game should be possible from the ingame settings menu, just like you would set up your racing wheel. An alternative to this is using (third party)software like AutoHotkey to map the joystick buttons from the JC32 to keyboard presses(for example map button one to send a "L" keypress for the pit limiter).

For the clutch, it's important the game supports analog axes from more than one controller. Most modern games/sims do, but to make sure you could hook up a spare gamepad or joystick and see you can map its controls while your wheel is also configured(if you're already using USB pedals like clubsports, your game should support this).

General Discussions / Re: Simple? wiring question
« on: January 08, 2014, 05:21:30 pm »
Making an LED light up while a button is pressed is fairly simple, provided you have a double pole button(doesn't matter if it's DPST or DPDT, you'll only use the NO side):

Wire up one side(pole) of the button like you normally would to the controller.

Then, connect one lead of the other side to ground, and the other lead to the LED's flat side.

Now connect your +5v through a current limiting resistor(330ohm is a safe value) to the other side of the LED, and it should light up when you press the button.

Using a single pole button is a problem, the input pin on you controller(whichever that may be, you didn't specify) probably isn't designed to sink enough current to light up an LED.
Unless Cristiano has another way, the double pole button is the easiest solution.

General Discussions / Re: need information about pro-gauge
« on: September 16, 2013, 08:14:24 pm »
I'm guessing that's the expansion connector the LED driver board will connect to when it's released. It might not be functional right now.

Edit: I seem to remember reading somewhere a Pro-Shift was to be integrated into it, though I'm not sure whether that actually happened.

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