Author Topic: Pro Gauge, DLC-247, and Displays questions.  (Read 6932 times)

wickedbadretard

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Pro Gauge, DLC-247, and Displays questions.
« on: March 04, 2014, 08:00:50 am »
These devices are so badass!!   First off. waiting for these parts was the first time I've checked the mail box more that 4 times a day lol. It shipped quickly but the travels from UK to USA took 13 unbearable days. I got them today after work, and immediately got to work on the rig. So far my only questions are.   

My Autometer Sport-Comp Tach shakes at low RPM below 900. How can I fix this?  Other than thats its so damn accurate once you calibrate it. Great stuff..

And with the 6 Digit displays..  I need to get something bigger..  How do I get something that will work with this Controller? I need something like 25mm tall to really work with what I got. Can anyone give me some advice here?


Mortos

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Re: Pro Gauge, DLC-247, and Displays questions.
« Reply #1 on: March 04, 2014, 10:15:04 am »
For the displays, as stated on the DLC-247 page any common anode display will work.
The Symprojects shop sells an 0.8"(20mm) and a 1.5"(38mm) display which are relatively close to the 25mm(1") you're looking for.

The ones sold in the shop come on a handy breakout board with a pin header so you can just plug them in and go.
If you get a display from a distributor(like mauser or digikey) you'll have the solder on some wires to be able to connect it to the DLC-247.

You might be able to find a broken out display on ebay or sites like adafruit and sparkfun, though if you get one with multiple digits you'd have to make sure the multiplexing is the same as the "official" Symprojects modules, I.E. segments connected together with a separate anode pin for each digit.

Cristiano

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Re: Pro Gauge, DLC-247, and Displays questions.
« Reply #2 on: March 05, 2014, 05:27:13 pm »
Hello.
do you need a display with 6 digits?



These devices are so badass!!   First off. waiting for these parts was the first time I've checked the mail box more that 4 times a day lol. It shipped quickly but the travels from UK to USA took 13 unbearable days. I got them today after work, and immediately got to work on the rig. So far my only questions are.   

My Autometer Sport-Comp Tach shakes at low RPM below 900. How can I fix this?  Other than thats its so damn accurate once you calibrate it. Great stuff..

And with the 6 Digit displays..  I need to get something bigger..  How do I get something that will work with this Controller? I need something like 25mm tall to really work with what I got. Can anyone give me some advice here?



wickedbadretard

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Re: Pro Gauge, DLC-247, and Displays questions.
« Reply #3 on: March 05, 2014, 05:56:25 pm »
Yes I just ordred 3  6digit displays.. the 9.2mm digits..  Im looking to get something in the 15mm range.  Ive found them cheap from china. But not sure how that multiplexing thing works..  What I need to ask for to make sure they work with this system...       

Also..... How do I smooth out the Tach at low revs?  The AutoMeter tach sits at zero fine till I start up simdash or a game.. Then it bounces from 0-1000 really fast till the revs are above 1000..  I have the tach on 4 cylinder mode. Its just the Issue when The car is not running.  or testing in simdash the low range of the sweep.  S

I havnt had the time to get everything set up and working but what I tested worked beautifully Cristiano..  Thanks for your amazing creations! 

Cristiano

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Re: Pro Gauge, DLC-247, and Displays questions.
« Reply #4 on: March 06, 2014, 05:28:49 pm »
Regarding the tachometer, if I remember correctly the smallest value of RPM you can display is 3% of the MAX that the tacho is able to display.

so if you have a 10K RPM unit, you read 0 from to 300 RPM and then suddentrly the needle jumps to 300 RPM.

maybe it is what you are experiencing.

Regarding the display, first of all you need COMMON ANODE display, which means that the 8 LEDs that compose each digit of the display share the  positive pin.

do you have a link to the display that you have found? because if you have it I can tell you quickly if  it work and how to connect it.

regards

wickedbadretard

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Re: Pro Gauge, DLC-247, and Displays questions.
« Reply #5 on: March 06, 2014, 09:15:25 pm »
Regarding the tachometer, if I remember correctly the smallest value of RPM you can display is 3% of the MAX that the tacho is able to display.

so if you have a 10K RPM unit, you read 0 from to 300 RPM and then suddentrly the needle jumps to 300 RPM.

maybe it is what you are experiencing.

Regarding the display, first of all you need COMMON ANODE display, which means that the 8 LEDs that compose each digit of the display share the  positive pin.

do you have a link to the display that you have found? because if you have it I can tell you quickly if  it work and how to connect it.

regards


While the car is not running the needle bounces like 3 times a second, from 0 to 1000.  its a very quick bounce. but like I said as long as the car is running and over 1000 RPM it seams fine.. Im not sure if it does it if you get the cars RPMs that low.. I have my rig disassembled right now and cant check.. Its not a big deal.. But would be SO much cooler if I could just get it to sit still when the cars not running.. Just more realistic you know ?   

Ill have to find a set of displays I look and post them for you to verify their compatibility..     

Also I made a mistake on my Gear Indicator.. I knew I wanted the wire out the back style but bought the side port. The way I want to mount it wont work with the side mount.. But I noticed it has solder tabs and traces coming from the USB port.. Can I chop a USB cord and hard wire it??   If so what wire goes to what? 


Mortos

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Re: Pro Gauge, DLC-247, and Displays questions.
« Reply #6 on: March 06, 2014, 11:43:34 pm »
I made a mistake on my Gear Indicator.. I knew I wanted the wire out the back style but bought the side port. The way I want to mount it wont work with the side mount.. But I noticed it has solder tabs and traces coming from the USB port.. Can I chop a USB cord and hard wire it??   If so what wire goes to what? 

If you have a GI Max, the holes should be labeled on the front(display side) of the PCB. According to wikipedia, the following should correspond to the markings on your GI Max:

+ (red wire)
D− (white wire)    
D+ (green wire)
- (black wire)

wickedbadretard

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Re: Pro Gauge, DLC-247, and Displays questions.
« Reply #7 on: March 08, 2014, 06:53:17 pm »
I made a mistake on my Gear Indicator.. I knew I wanted the wire out the back style but bought the side port. The way I want to mount it wont work with the side mount.. But I noticed it has solder tabs and traces coming from the USB port.. Can I chop a USB cord and hard wire it??   If so what wire goes to what? 

If you have a GI Max, the holes should be labeled on the front(display side) of the PCB. According to wikipedia, the following should correspond to the markings on your GI Max:

+ (red wire)
D− (white wire)    
D+ (green wire)
- (black wire)

Cool Ill give it a go. I was hoping it was that simple.    Thanks!



 

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